At the Golden Gate Library, families got together with us to experiment with leather-working skills, creating personalized bracelets.
Folk could choose from precut bracelets or leather scraps they cut themselves. We brought a wide range of stamps, paints, and hardware that each person used to individualize their very own wearable work of art.
Ted Huller is a long-time Ace member and also Ace’s resident 3D Printing Steward. I’m Carter Jenkins, and I had the chance to talk with Ted about his history with Ace as well as some recent work he has done.
Ted’s History with Ace
Ted is a long-time friend of Ace Executive Director Rachel Crafty, but Ted’s story begins before Rachel was in that role. Ted works in a laboratory, and throughout his working process, he sometimes finds that he needs to make custom-built parts in order to fulfill certain jobs. He normally would make these parts out of wood, (Ted is a master woodworker) but one day the job required a small beaker holder that was too fine to make with wood. Hearing about Ace’s 3D printing workspace, Ted decided that he should learn some basic skills in 3D printing so that he could handle situations like these. He admits the process wasn’t very smooth, but in the end, he had a working product, and that experience made Ted very interested in 3D printing as a whole.
Fast forward a few years, and Ted became a regular Ace member. He still did woodworking at home, but the Ace makerspace had become his new home for metalwork and some 3D printing. Ted quickly got his own 3D printer at home, meaning that his interactions with Ace slowly dwindled as his needs for printing materials shrunk. One day, however, former 3D printing steward Matt stepped down, leaving the position open to anyone in the Ace community. After some deliberation, Ted decided that he should give something back to the Ace community, and with his new expertise, Ted became the printing steward.
The 3D Printing Space at Ace
The 3D printing space is shared with a multipurpose space that houses the electronics lab, a couple of workstations, and the big format paper printer. This room is known as the Clean Fabrication room. There are two Prusa-brand 3D printers, which Ted calls “the Ford F-150 of printers. There’s a lot of them, they’re not the most sophisticated, but they’re pretty darn reliable and thought out.” There’s also a nearby computer dedicated to preparing files for the printers. The printers don’t need a computer to run, but makers will often find that it helps to be able to do last-minute manipulations to the 3D object files.
The Slack community for 3D printing at Ace has members in the hundreds, and pretty much all questions and discussions happen over Slack. Ted considers it the most efficient way to ask, read, and answer questions; he encourages new members to use Slack for almost all of their communications.
An Example of Ted’s Work
Ted and his wife recently bought an old minivan so they can go camping without having to deal with tents. The Toyota they bought was almost perfect for this purpose, except for one thing. The two of them both found the minivan to be a little too small to have both front seating and bed arrangements, so they looked into having adaptable seats that could swivel and lie down to make beds. The Toyota’s seats, however, were bolted to the floor in such a way that commercial seat-adjusting kits wouldn’t work. With no other options, Ted turned to his making skills to fabricate a “captain’s chair,” similar to those found in commercial RVs.
Ted started with drilling out a swivel plate and holes in the floor of the van, making sure to line them up precisely by means of the metal mill at Ace. The actual process of making the seat swivel wasn’t that difficult, but Ted encountered another problem soon after. Modern-day seats in cars and vans have lots of electrical wiring leading into them, whether it’s for operating a heater or controlling the seat’s back-and-forth movement. Ted found that the wires in the seat were dangerously close to shearing themselves on some exposed metal left by the drill holes, which would cause all sorts of maladies if not addressed properly. To solve this problem, he 3D printed a large plastic washer that bolts onto the wire hole. This means that instead of the wires dragging on sharp metal edges, it’s protected by a layer of comparably soft plastic. There were other little 3D-printed objects that Ted made, such as protective sheaths for the wire connectors.
Interestingly, Ted’s neighbor was going through a similar process with a van of their own at around this time. They had also encountered the same wire-cutting problem, and since Ted had just fitted the washer he offered to print a duplicate for his neighbor. With about a dollar’s worth of filament, Ted solved his neighbor’s problem.
Ted will continue to make and create at Ace for a long time. There are no big projects in his immediate future, but before our talk ended Ted told me that he was looking forward to, “training some more people, getting them ready, and seeing what people are going to 3D print.” I’m Carter Jenkins and thank you for reading.
Mauricio Salmerón has been working on a project recently. What started as a joke request to a friend has now spanned into a multi-month project that is now nearing completion. I got a chance to speak with Mauricio over a weekend and he shed some light on what other workshop members saw as two large pieces of wood glued together.
Mauricio has been an off-and-on member of the Ace Makerspace for a few years now. He used to own a furniture-making shop called “The Furniture Space,” where he did woodworking to create all kinds of custom furniture such as tables and sideboards. After that, Mauricio found Ace to be the best place to continue honing his craft.
A while back, Mauricio was talking with June, a friend of his. The conversation eventually drifted to June’s need for a new bed. After discussing how June’s search hadn’t been successful, Mauricio jokingly offered to build her a bed frame. The two laughed, and the conversation moved on. However, a month or two later June took Mauricio up on his half-serious request.
Mauricio worked on the project on and off, but many months later it’s nearly complete. Throughout his build process, Mauricio used many workshop tools to complete the project. The table saw, chop saw, router, drill, and planer to name a few. He estimates “another 10 hours of work and headboard assembly” and the new frame will be ready to send to June. The entire assembly consists of 5 main parts that can be put together to complete the full platform-style bed. June, of course, will have to provide the mattress, but it seems that the bulk of the work has been completed.
Oak boards were surfaced through the joiner and planer, then dimensioned with the table saw
The boards were clamped together and glued to make the large sides of the bed, the tops to the sides with pocket screws
The three main pieces were completed by now, each with its own plywood support frame
The surfaced boards were put together with pocket screws and clamps to create the headboard
The last piece, the middle mattress support, was made with plywood, glue, and pocket screws
The three large oak pieces were attached with latches, the headboard had cleats and bolts to attach to the side pieces, and the middle mattress support piece
My 23 year old son told me he’d love a shoe rack in his new home that doubled as a side table for his sofa.He’d been unable to find anything to buy that fit the dimensions, so I decided to build him one.
There were a few specifics that needed to be accounted for — the dimensions of the space, the color of wood that would complement his room, and the fact that they hang coats against the wall that the rack/table would abut…
He loves mid-century modern furniture — so I found and modified a style online to be able to hold 5 pairs of shoes, be the right height for the sofa table, and allow for the coats to co-exist.
I recently made a different shoe rack with mitered corners on the plywood sides — and was pretty unhappy with the results.Solid wood is so much more forgiving for the occasional minor gap in the joint — because you can sand it down to make the flaw less visible.I found plywood, however, having such a thin veneer, too easy to oversand and ended up with areas where the veneer was gone and the underlying ply exposed.
But I knew a plain butt joint wouldn’t provide enough stability.I decided instead to do two things to strengthen the joints in the plywood pieces:I created a hidden spline joint, and I added a 2″ back strip to each shelf to support the entire structure.
That left all the plywood edges exposed, which I’d planned to cover with iron-on edge veneer.In my cabinet-making days (decades ago!) I’d regularly made plywood shelves with edge veneer without problem.But in this project, this is where the headaches got the worst!
I ironed the edge veneer on each board before assembling the piece.The edge tape is 7/8″ wide, so there’s a good amount to remove till it’s the proper width for the plywood.I sanded each piece down, only to discover that I’d inadvertently sanded through the plywood veneer in places.
Additionally, once I put the pieces together, additional sanding went through parts of the edge veneer AND the plywood veneer!I cannot even count how many re-dos I did of the edge veneer — which was far more challenging now that the piece was assembled and everything had to fit exactly.
I finished the piece in oil based varathane to warm up the color a bit. In the end it came out okay.Most of the flaws were in the back, which won’t show being against the sofa. (My son was pleased, most importantly)
I’ve thought about how I’d do it differently next time.I don’t know how easily I could find a thicker veneered plywood, but I’d swear the veneer was thicker in the old days…!
I’d definitely invest in an edge veneer trimmer to lessen the sanding I was doing.
And I’ll likely lean more towards using solid wood vs plywood in future projects!
So Ace is working on a holiday card and we need rubber stamps for some of the art. This is the tale of making rubbers stamps including all the mistakes on our 100w CO2 Laser.
Gorilla Spray Glue
Art Ink pads
Laser Engravable Rubber Polymer, low odor, from rubber-stamp.com
The artwork… that is the first place things went wonky but I didn’t realize it until I cut. I had forgotten that engraving needed an outer boundary in order to drop out the right stuff. Check out these screenshots. Everything black in these images will be burned away.
The thing to remember with vector laser files, LaserSoft, and rubber stamps is:
Mirror the art
Set an outer boundary for the etching
The outer boundary is the same as the cut line so you will need one object to be the boundary and one object on another layer to be the cut line.
Here are the results from the two files. As you can see the art in the first file didn’t match the intention.
Testing and getting the right settings down
The laser polymer comes with some settings but they are for much lower wattage lasers than ours.
It took a bunch of test etching to get to settings that worked. I used a focus range for etching. These are the settings we finally settled on:
Etching: 150/80/78 (make sure to turn on grade engrave)
Putting it together and what I learned about glue
So I cut the outlines out of some scrap wood and used e6000 glue to attach the rubber bit. The results were… bad.
The final product did work out well with a layer of craft foam and using gorilla spray glue.
The post-laser etching finishing and clean up
Laser etching rubber polymer is dirty. Really dirty. When the stamps come off the laser they should be soaked in the water right away for about 10 – 15 min. then scrubbed with a soft brush.
This is what a brand new filter looked like after 8.1min. of cutting and etching laser.
The “dirt-bike” or sports dust masks are really popular. A lot of folks know them from using them at events like Burning Man and Coachella. The issue with a lot of “dirt bike” style masks is the exhalation valves which are totally unfiltered. This makes these masks pretty useless for COVID-19 safety. You can read more about what the CDC says about masks with valves.
Everything I used for this 2-min hack:
CLUX Mesh Black Face Mask with Black Carbon Filter by Continental Luxury (amazon)
small (not tiny) rubber bands – one for each valve
I assembled the mask according to manufacturers’ directions. I cut the filter fabric to go over the valve with a very generous overlap – you can always cut off the excess. Then I slipped the rubber band over 2 layers of filter fabric to secure it to the Valve. This covers the valve and any leaky spots around the opening.
So the issue with a lot of respirators and dust masks is the exhalation valve which is totally unfiltered. This makes them pretty useless for COVID-19 safety. You can read more about what the CDC says about masks with valves.
Check out the gallery below to see how I added a filter to my valve. I specifically added it to the outside so it would last longer before getting moist and so others could see it. I used two layers of material for the filter.
We had a blast making light-up holiday and birthday cards with families at the Golden Gate Branch Library. Each person started by designing their very own circuit with 1 to 4 LED lights, a battery, and a switch. Pushing the switch lit up the card!
Some folk crafted their own pictures, while others added lights to art paper. Either way, each person brought their own spark to the experience.
We celebrated pride with some Oakland love at the Golden Gate Library!
We brought laser-cut Oakland trees and alcohol ink. Families brought their creativity and spark. Together, we made lots of rainbow-colored, Oakland-themed earrings and key rings. A wonderful way to show our Oakland Pride!